Today I walked a sandy beach along Lake Kootenay while the smell of smoke from a woodstove hung in the air. I was in Kokanee Creek Provincial park walking a moss lined trail as the creek rushed past. I had arrived in Nelson, BC two days prior to sample some of the goods at Whitewater ski area though the weather had not been all that cooperative. Luckily I had gotten in a day on soft spring snow before rain and warm temperatures forced the mountain to shut for the day.
It had been a nice five days as I worked my way north from Spokane to Schweitzer Mountain outside Sandpoint, Idaho. Timing meant I hit soft spring corn on the Winterfest weekend when people came with a party spirit and crazy outfits to match, including a variety of super heroes, a yeti and a liftie in a storm trooper helmet. Under a bright sun and clear blue skies, hoards of skiers sipped cold beers while listening to live music and enjoying the view of the main bowl. So, with a large coffee in hand and a good nights rest I had pointed the car north toward the Canadian border. The route wound through valleys dotted with ranches and freestone rivers before arriving at the Porthill border crossing. I struggled for a few minutes to figure out how to switch my car's readout into Km from MPH after clearing border control. It is fascinating how someone with a master's degree can find the simple act of finding a button so damn frustrating.
Earlier today I strolled along the waterfront in Nelson enjoying some crisp morning air. The town began to stir to life as I walked the streets past boutiques, eateries and book stores. I climbed to Pulpit Rock and peered down at Nelson from above while small planes and helicopters swooped below me and banked to land at the small airport that lay along the west arm of Kootenay lake. After a quick lunch and as light rain began to fall I hiked back to the car and traveled northeast to Ainsworth hot springs. My tired muscles were happy to soak in the 108 degree water as I floated with my body submerged and my face poking above through the invisible surface tension where air and water meet.
From the hot springs I went just a bit further north to Fletcher Falls where a wonderful curtain of water cascaded down through a mossy landscape full of large cedars that shed rain drops from their massive branches. I walked alone along the spongy trail as low clouds drifted over the lake below.
Later, back at my hotel room I was a bit like a wet noodle as I ate dinner silently before the TV. Despite the uncooperative weather and warm, damp day I had managed to make the best of things. Tomorrow I would check out and continue my travels north to Revelstoke for the final leg of this journey. I was excited but nervous knowing that this would be the most physically challenging part of my five weeks.
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